We have screened thousands of questions over the course of our experience with Anatolian Shepherds. Whether it's our personal farm setup, puppy health, breed behavior, or training requirements, we are available to help answer any and all questions you may have!
Below are a few of our most common inquiries.
We have about 20 acres in northwest Iowa, surrounded by corn country, prairie, and groves of trees. Of the acreage, approximately half of it is located in a floodplain of a river and unable to be permanently fenced. There is a plethora of wildlife that uses this remote channel as a vital habitat. When the waters recede in the spring, we are able to utilize the grass with temporary hotwire and electronet pastures that are easily removed in the fall. The goats and dogs enjoy having more space in the floodplain during the warmer, grassy months. For the upper ground, we have four permanent pastures made of cattle panel and t-post fencing with a strand of hotwire and a SportDog 100-acre system. During the winter and while the waters are high in the spring, we practice rotational grazing in these four smaller pastures. Our eventual goal is to build a functional perimeter fence above the floodplain that encloses the yard, buildings, and pastures to allow our dogs full access to the entirety of the property. That is a work in progress! At any given time, we have a dozen dairy goats, 4 dozen free-range chickens, a handful of cats, and our dogs that protect everyone.
Yes, yes, and YES! We absolutely love our SportDog. It is a fairly inexpensive way to ensure your dogs respect your existing physical fence. The SportDog acts as an additional barrier, attaching to whatever fencing you already have. The transmitter remains in your home and a copper-filled wire is run around whatever perimeter you hope to contain, connecting back to the transmitter and creating a giant "loop". The transmitter emits a frequency through the wire that is received by your dog's collar. If the dog gets too close to the wire/fenceline, the warning tone and vibration lets the dog know to back away. If the dog continues into the "red zone" close to the fenceline, the collar will give a mild shock to tell the dog to get back. The shock settings can be fully adjusted as well as the proximity the dog can get to the wire before receiving a warning. This fencing system has curbed any jumping/digging at the fenceline before it even began. All of our adult dogs know and respect the SportDog system. We have a very simple video of how it works and what it looks like available. Contact us if you would like to receive it!
The very purpose of a livestock guardian dog is to be a predator-friendly option to keep livestock safe. This means that predators and prey can coexist in the same area because the dogs act as a deterrence for predation. LGD's will bark as their first line of defense, which makes most predators think twice about coming close. However, we do occasionally have a run-in with a brazen predator, especially around kidding season, when the sights and smells are too good to resist. The dogs swiftly dispatch any encroaching danger and effectively keep our livestock safe. Our most common issues with wildlife, besides the standard small pests and rodents, are raccoons, ground hogs, stray dogs, fox, and coyotes.
As my retired veterinarian used to say, "If you're expecting a dog's care and health to be cheap, you'd best get a chihuahua instead of a great dane!" To be completely honest, there are SEVERAL challenges to owning this breed. Anatolians are definitely not for everyone. This ancient breed was developed for thousands of years to be able to think independently and act accordingly without human interaction in the best interest of livestock. While that creates an amazing livestock guardian dog, they can also be incredibly stubborn and aloof. They can perform commands perfectly one day and then act like they can't even hear you the next. They are massive diggers and often have a variety of dens or holes that help them keep cool or warm. They can be escape artists and roam far distances without borders. However, they are unmatched in their ability to bond with and protect livestock. There are few things better than watching an Anatolian help clean up a newborn baby goat and then defend it against coyotes later that night.
Color is absolutely a personal preference and in no way hinders the performance of the dog as a working livestock guardian. To some extent, each dog we have has different abilities to camouflage into their surroundings dependent on their color. All colors are accepted by the AKC for Anatolian Shepherds and there are different coat lengths as well. Some people prefer traditional fawn while some want brindle or pinto. We have had no problem placing puppies of different colors.
We currently produce only 1 litter per year and have 1 active breeding female at a time. Our senior female was retired after her 2020 litter and our junior female will eventually take her place. Dogs that are not used for breeding or are later retired from breeding are spayed and neutered. All breeding dogs are health-tested with the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals after 2 years of age and obtain their CHIC numbers (meaning they have completed the breed standard requirements of health testing) prior to being bred. Breeding begins at 2-3 years of age with 1 litter per year and a maximum of 4 litters per breeding female before retirement. Copies of OFA results are provided in the puppy care package.
Puppies are born in the goat pasture and raised from birth with goats, cats, chickens, and one cantankerous pony. For the first few weeks, they stay with mom inside the shelter. Dependent on the timing, we like to start puppies with our does and young kids. Our milking does are very familiar with puppies and we have found it beneficial to raise puppies and kids together. We feed Purina Pro Plan Large Breed Puppy. Puppies are started on soft kibble mash at 3 weeks of age and are fed twice daily for a couple weeks. When they are older, they are transitioned to a creep fence that allows them to pass through while keeping all livestock and adult dogs out. There, they can have access to full-feed kibble. We deworm with Strongid-T at 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. A distemper/parvovirus vaccine is given around 7 weeks old and again (if the puppy is still on-site) at 11 weeks old. A thorough vet exam for each puppy is conducted at 7 weeks old. Throughout the course of the puppy's life at the farm, they will be exposed to most things that farm life has to offer. We bring out family and friends to socialize with them, leave the pastures to go on romps around the yard, and make special trips into the chicken coop (where the adult Anatolians are not allowed) for increased exposure.
This is one area where I highly recommend researching! There are MANY stories on both sides of the fence, where raising two littermates has been wildly successful or an absolute disaster. The ultimate key is having the time and patience to work with each puppy INDIVIDUALLY to ensure each dog eventually matures to be a well-rounded livestock guardian dog. Some littermates can bond so deeply that they become co-dependent and struggle to perform on their own or can be anxious when they are separated from their partner for one reason or another. Others can have a very dangerous rivalry or dominance issue that eventually results in one needing to be rehomed for safety reasons. However, there are advantages to raising two pups together as well. They can form a bond early that creates a solid, mutually beneficial working relationship in the future. They can burn off excessive energy together that could otherwise be directed at your livestock in the form of playing or chasing. Once you are over the "puppy phase", you have two wonderful LGD's with no need to repeat an additional puppy phase later. The answer really comes down to whether you are equipped with patience, well-researched, capable of trouble-shooting, and prepared for the one-on-one time with each puppy in order to prepare them both to be happy individually, work as a team, and bond appropriately with livestock. In general, female/male or male/male pairs tend to be much more desirable for working together than female/female pairs. To learn more about "littermate syndrome" and advantages/disadvantages to owning and working with two similarly-aged pups, please click HERE.
Our adult males are littermates and work as an excellent LGD team. One is dominant and one is submissive and we have had no issues with squabbles or challenges. We have successfully placed a working male/female pair of pups in California that have grown into a wonderful team. The only hindrance was keeping them separated during sexual maturity and heat cycles until they could be spayed and neutered. We have also had repeat buyers purchase a second puppy from us from a different, later litter to spread out the workload and ensure the older dog is established properly before adding a second puppy.
Ultimately, it depends on your unique situation, the time you have available, your knowledge, and your ability to successfully direct a puppy (or two!) to his/her/their full potential.
If you have been involved with any LGD group on social media, you will know there are a wide array of opinions/answers to counter every problem - and that many of those opinions can be wildly off-base or even detrimental to a dog's training. It is vitally important to find good sources for tips and tricks that will build your working relationship and help your dog reach his/her full potential. We, at Ewawki River, are dedicated to helping you with whatever issue may arise and have access to many trustworthy resources to assist you in learning.
The most recommended book promoted for Livestock Guardian Dogs is: LIVESTOCK PROTECTION DOGS: SELECTION, CARE AND TRAINING.
We do not own this book; however, it has been widely recommended as a good beginner/introductory level book to get you started with livestock guardians.
We will do our best to answer or direct you to additional resources where you can learn more!
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